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Infused with Joy
By Kimberly Crum • Photos by Jolea Brown

“A mint julep is not the product of a formula. It is a ceremony and must be performed by a
gentleman possessing a true sense of the artistic, a deep reverence for the ingredients, and
a proper appreciation of the occasion. It is a rite that must not be entrusted to a novice, a
statistician, nor a Yankee. It is a heritage of the old South, an emblem of hospitality, and a
vehicle in which noble minds can travel together upon the flower-strewn paths of a happy
and congenial thought.”  
These words written in the purple prose of the early 20th
century (in an instructional letter by Lt. General S.B. Buckner) might easily
describe Louisville bartender Joy Perrine.

Like the letter writer, Joy has a deep reverence for the
artful combination of the ingredients of her craft. And she
certainly is not a novice: Joy has been a bartender for 42
years. But she digresses from some of the other alleged
characteristics of the quintessential julep creator:
Joy Perrine is a bartending, julep-making woman, and a
native Yankee (Long Beach Island, N.J.) Gentleman Southerners, please step
aside.

In spite of being a lady-come-lately to the South, Joy has earned her Kentucky
Derby credentials. She has been making mint juleps for 28 years, 22 years in
the employ of Dean Corbett, the chef-proprietor of Equus Restaurant and Jack’
s Lounge. She is now bar manager, unable to bartend more than once weekly
due to a “repetitive pouring injury.” During her tenure as bar manager, Jack’s
Lounge has received three Best of Louisville awards for Best Bartender and
Best Cocktails. Joy has been the winner of three Brown-Forman drink-invention
contests. And her Old-Fashioned recipe has been featured in Food and Wine
magazine (see sidebar recipe). Joy is an apt name for this 60-something
bartender who laughs easily, expresses childlike enthusiasm for her work, and
is irrepressibly straight-forward. “It’s always exciting. I love the liquor, the crazy
things out there…I love all the things I can play with!”

What does a seasoned award-winning bartender have to say about the most
hallowed of Derby beverages, the mint julep? You might expect her to extol its
virtues: the minty aroma or the slightly sweet/herbal flavors stirred into a
generous helping of bourbon. Instead of praise for this annual ritualistic
beverage, Joy says, “There is controversy over mint juleps.” To which
controversy does she refer? Whether to use simple syrup infused with mint
leaves or confectioner’s sugar muddled with mint? Whether to use chipped or
shaved ice? Whether to use silver julep cups or Collins glasses? Whether to
serve with a straw or without? None of the above. Joy explains: “A lot of people
dislike this drink.” The problem is that juleps made in mass quantities can taste
“watered down and nasty.” Part of the problem is the use of crushed ice, which
melts too quickly. “At Jack’s we make juleps (one-at-a-time) with small ice cubes
in a tall glass.” And Joy recommends spearmint rather than field mint.
“Spearmint has a mellower flavor.” She says it is important to bruise the mint
leaves by rubbing them gently between your fingers. “If you don’t bruise the
mint, (your drink) will smell like kitty litter.”

If she had a choice to create an alternate to the mint julep, what would it be?
“My favorite is the Woodford infusion,” she answers. Infusions are “invigorating,
exciting, relaxing, and pretty,” which is consistent with the original purpose of
the julep. Our favorite Kentucky Derby beverages were intended to refresh and
invigorate thirsty Southern planters and were usually served in the morning. Joy
says a typical Derby drink must “include ingredients common to Kentucky, like
strawberry or mint and, of course, bourbon.”

At the time of our interview, Joy’s drink menu features an apple infusion, served
in a champagne flute with sparkling apple cider. The result is a bubbly
refreshing beverage that underplays the alcoholic bite of the bourbon, except
for slight caramel undertones. Joy explains the infusion process: the ripe fruit is
sliced and placed with decanted bourbon in a refrigerated, vacuum sealed, all-
glass container for 3-10 days. The mixture is strained and returned to its
original bottle. Before serving, the bourbon is combined with other ingredients,
including simple syrup (white or brown sugar dissolved into equal parts of
boiling water). Infusions are served room temperature or chilled in martini
glasses: shaken, not stirred.

Joy calls her favorite citrus infusion, a “Bourjito,” in parody of the rum “julep,”
the Mojito. She admits bourbon purists won’t buy the infused sweeter
alternatives to straight-up bourbon. “Sometimes I get flack for the things I do
with bourbon,” she jokes. But the opinions of purists don’t bother this
bartender, who describes herself as a “chamber of commerce” for Kentucky
whiskey. “My mission is to help people who don’t like bourbon, love it!”Joy
Perrine’s recipe for Chocolate Mint Julep as quoted in the column Recipes for
Southern Spirits, by Susan Puckett, The Atlanta Journal-Constitution, February
1, 2007.

Chocolate Mint Julep
1 serving • Hands on: 3 minutes • Total time: 3 minutes

”Bourbon has the most amazing characteristics, such as
caramel, brown sugar, vanilla, molasses and pineapple, to
name a few. If you add complementary flavors such as brown
sugar, coconut, vanilla, pineapple or chocolate, you will have a
wonderful combination that will appeal to more people.”

1  shot Woodford Reserve or other bourbon
1 shot crème de menthe
1  shot Godiva liqueur (look for the original, not “chocolate cream” version)
Mint sprig

Strain bourbon, crème de menthe, and Godiva liqueur over ice and pour into a
martini or cocktail glass. Garnish with a sprig of fresh mint.Joy’s recipe for the
Old-Fashioned Cocktail, as published in Food and Wine magazine. (retrieved
from http://www.foodandwine.com/recipes/old-fashioned-cocktails-2006)

Old Fashioned Cocktail
Jack’s Lounge • Louisville
“Bar manager Joy Perrine —a veteran of the industry — adds a few extra
splashes of bitters to her version of the quintessential Louisville cocktail (first
concocted at Louisville’s Pendennis Club).”

1 orange slice
1 maraschino cherry
1/2 ounce Simple Syrup
5 dashes of Angostura bitters
2 ounces bourbon
Ice

In a rocks glass, muddle the orange slice and cherry with the Simple Syrup and
bitters. Add the bourbon and a few ice cubes and stir well. captions: Joy
Perrine   BourjitoChocolate Mint JulepDerby Manhattan
Below is
an original
recipe
provided
by the
letter
writer, Lt.
Gen. S. B.  
Buckner,
in the early
part of the
20th
century

"Go to the
sideboard
and select
a decanter
of
Kentucky
Bourbon,
distilled by
a master
hand,
mellowed
with age
yet still
vigorous
and
inspiring.
An
ancestral
sugar
bowl, a row
of silver
goblets,
some
spoons
and some
ice and
you are
ready to
start. In a
canvas
bag,
pound
twice as
much ice
as you
think you
will need.
Make it
fine as
snow,
keep it dry
and do not
allow (it) to
degenerate
into slush.
In each
goblet, put
a slightly
heaping
teaspoonful
of
granulated
sugar,
barely
cover this
with spring
water and
slightly
bruise one
mint leaf
into this,
leaving the
spoon in
the goblet.
Then pour
elixir from
decanter
until the
goblets
are about
one-fourth
full. Fill the
goblets
with snowy
ice,
sprinkling
in a small
amount of
sugar as
you fill.
Wipe the
outside of
the goblets
dry and
embellish
copiously
with mint"